Hanfu: China’s 3,700-Year Fashion Legacy Explained

What Is Hanfu? The Soul of Chinese Fashion

Hanfu, the traditional clothing of China’s Han people, spans 3,700 years from the Zhou to Ming Dynasties. Unlike Japan’s kimono or Korea’s hanbok, it’s not tied to one era but a system of styles. Here’s what defines Chinese traditional clothing:

• Crossed Collar (Jiaoling Youren): The collar folds right over left, symbolizing uprightness. Left-over-right was for burial shrouds.
• Tied Waist: No buttons—belts or sashes cinch the waist, reflecting balance and harmony.
• Wide Sleeves: Rounded cuffs and straight-seamed backs echo “heaven round, earth square.”

Hanfu splits into two types:

• Ceremonial: Think emperor’s mianfu robes or queen’s pheasant-embroidered dresses for rituals.
• Daily: Ruqun skirts or beizi jackets for everyday life or festivals.

In the West, suits signal formality. For Hanfu, layers and patterns do the talking—12-layered ceremonial robes feel sacred, while a Song beizi with pants screams casual chic.

Five Iconic Hanfu Styles to Know

These traditional Chinese dress styles shine across history:

1. Shenyi (One-Piece Robe)

A top and skirt sewn together, the shenyi symbolizes “heaven and earth united.” Popular from the Spring and Autumn period to the Han Dynasty, scholars wore it for lectures or rites.

2. Chest-High Ruqun (Top and Skirt)

This Tang Dynasty favorite ties a skirt at the chest, with flowing waves of fabric. Seen in the painting Ladies with Flower Hairpins, it’s as grand as Victorian crinolines but lighter. Learn more about Tang fashion at The Met.

3. Beizi (Open Jacket)

A Song Dynasty staple, this straight-cut jacket pairs with a bandeau or ruqun. Modern fans, like New York’s Hanfu Society, mix ramie beizi with jeans for a bohemian vibe.

4. Aoqun (Jacket and Skirt)

Ming’s go-to style, with a double-layered top and horse-face skirt. Its flat panels eased riding, and side pleats stored items like a modern bag. Metal buttons were a Ming first.

5. Duanda (Workwear)

Not just for waiters, this short jacket and pants combo was practical for farmers and workers. It’s the ultimate ancient utilitarian look.

Hanfu’s Moral Code: Clothing as Etiquette

Hanfu embodies China’s “Five Rites” system, tying fashion to values.

I once joined a Song-style coming-of-age ceremony. When the teen received his cap, reciting “Shed childish ways, embrace virtue,” I saw how Hanfu teaches ethics silently.

Hanfu Revival: Tradition Meets Today

Hanfu is roaring back, bridging ancient and modern worlds.

China and U.S. Connect

Actress Lin Chiling stunned Times Square in a mint-green Ming aoqun, dubbed an “Eastern challenge to urban chic” by media. American TikToker Rachel’s Hanfu hair tutorials hit millions of views: “Tying a skirt sash feels like holding time’s key.”

Debates and Innovations

Some purists resist modern tweaks like phone pockets or synthetic fabrics. Meanwhile, Dior’s 2022 horse-face skirt copy sparked global Hanfu protests, highlighting its cultural weight.

Everyday Hanfu

Boston’s Hanfu Society blends styles:

• Song beizi + suit pants = library-ready.
• Tang short jacket + pencil skirt = office-friendly.

Suzhou embroiderers even weave LED threads into glowing capes for festivals, turning wearers into walking starfields.

Experience Hanfu in the U.S.

Ready to explore Chinese fashion history? Here’s how:

• Museums:
  • The Met: Ming Dynasty dragon robe in Gallery 222.
  • Chicago Art Institute: Ming Emperor’s Festival Scroll.
• Seasonal Styles:
  • Qingming Festival: Green shenyi for spring’s renewal.
  • Dragon Boat Festival: Red beizi with wormwood sachets.
  • Mid-Autumn Festival: Moon-white cloak for lunar vibes.

Wearing a horse-face skirt in Central Park, you’re not just dressing up—you’re tying into 5,000 years of unbroken culture. Discover more at Britannica.

FAQ: Unpacking Hanfu Culture

What Is the Cultural Significance of Hanfu?

Hanfu is a symbol of Chinese identity, etiquette, and art:

• Etiquette: Styles like shenyi follow Confucian rules, with colors showing rank (purple for high officials).
• Philosophy: Wide sleeves reflect nature’s harmony; embroidery carries ancient crafts like Suzhou stitchwork.
• Identity: Hanfu joins Chinese characters and Tang poetry as a cultural pillar, drawing millions to Xi’an’s Tang-themed streets.

Why Do Chinese People Want to Wear Hanfu?

Modern Chinese wear Hanfu to reconnect with heritage:

• Roots: Young people feel tied to history, with 70% of Yuncheng’s Hanfu tourists aged 18–35.
• Style: Hanfu’s market hit $3.4 billion in 2025, fueled by social media like Douyin’s 80 billion views.
• Support: Events like China Huafu Day (third lunar month) boost pride.

Why Is Hanfu Popular Again Today?

Hanfu’s comeback blends pride, tech, and innovation:

• Pride: Government backing and studies, like Peking University’s reports, standardize designs.
• Tech: Douyin videos and AR try-ons, like the Palace Museum’s app, reach millions.
• Global Reach: Brands like Return to Han-Tang export to 30 countries, hitting Paris Fashion Week.

Why Was Hanfu Banned in China?

Hanfu was outlawed in the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912) to erase Han identity. The 1644 “shave hair, change clothes” edict forced Manchu styles, with brutal enforcement like the Jiading Massacre. Hanfu survived in theater and temples, revived today with help from Korean and Japanese records.